Wiring Vegetable Oil Fuel System

Wiring the system is fairly straight forward. The Switch I use is an on-off-on model meaning that when the rocker switch is up it sends power to one set of accessories. In my case the up position sends power to the vegtherm, and hydroforce supply valve. Hydraforce three way valves are numbered 1,2, 3. When not energized the valve flows from port 3 to port 1. This is the default / diesel position. When the valve has power (is energized) it shuts port 3, and flows from port 2 to 1 supplying oil from the vegetable oil tank to the injection pump into the engine.



The vegetable oil and diesel fuel filters come before the supply valve.

The beauty of creating your own vegetable oil fuel system is that there are numerous ways to accomplish the same goal. This is simply what made sense for me at the time. The system is modular and easily changeable. Click on the wiring schematic in the top right picture for a better view of my setup. I've debated using an ON-ON-ON rocker switch wired to ignition power so I can power the fuel pump at the diesel tank, and send the fuel return to the diesel tank as well.

Going to Annual Training until August 24th hopefully there will be internet out there. If there isn't I'll try and get one more post before leaving.

Hydroboost!!

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Diesel engines don't produce their own vacuum and need a pump to accomplish vacuum power. The stock SD-33 diesel engine has a vacuum pump mounted on the back of the Hitachi alternator that is not very powerful, and isn't operable. The previous owner (PO) installed a GM Alternator in another location and the engine is running both. With a Hydro boost conversion the power brakes tie into the power steering pump, are more effective and allow you to free up engine power.

Parts can be had at any u pull it, and an early 90's Astro Van is the preferred donor vehicle.
-Note if your scout/ vehicles power steering pump & steering gear has flared fittings you will have to change out hose ends or buy adapters to fit the O-ring type hydraulic fittings that GM used on all of there vehicles from the early 80's on up.

If your scout is circa 1980 you will have O-ring fittings and an easier install.

Parts list:
Astro Van
-Hydro boost
-Master cylinder
-Proportioning valve
-hydraulic lines connected to booster
-brake lines extending from the Master cylinder to the ABS

Decided to tackle this project as the examples from binderbulletin.org
made the project appear easy. This project has proved to be relatively
complicated. Learned how to flare brake lines which is a must for this project.
The other time consuming aspect was dealing with the longer shaft of the hydro booster.
some people section the rod that connects to the pedal while others build a plate to mount the booster farther back from the firewall. I chose to create a plate, and adjust the brake light switche. Other conversions used some sort of spacer that backs the booster 1 inch from the firewall. Cutting the stock booster bracket and welding it to the Astro van donor booster is the best option IMHO (in my humble opinion).

I didn't want to use a welder and it has ended up costing me more time and money.
Had a great idea of fabricating an aluminum spacer, but made it to thin and didn't complete the install before the weekend climbing trip to Smith Rock and had to give gas money to buddies.

After working past 4am plumbing and installing the brakes waited till the next morning to bleed the system and wouldn't you know it the rear master cylinder plug cross threaded and refused to seal letting air in the system.

Longest Trek Yet!

What a great day yesterday was. Got up early (4am) and headed on up to FT. Lewis for a flight physical. Pretty cold in the Scout with the top off.

Flew through the physical and was done by 1030am. Drove on up to visit John Fleck at Back Country Binders in Port Orchard. Crossing the sound was epic. The enormity of the scenery was intimidating with the gigantic masts thrusting from the vast waters, and the high wind warning I felt as if I'd be sucked out of the Scout. Not on this day just the big beautiful sun.

Purchased a roll bar from Jon because that long of a drive in the hot sun deserves a bikini top. There is a stock roll bar inside the fiberglass traveler tops. John learned this after rolling a couple scouts.

Projects to come will are:
Hydroboost Brakes
Cold Air Intake
Alternator Relocation
Bikini Top
and on and on

Making the Scout Perform as a Capable Ski Rig

This diesel scout set out life with this author to cruize up Mt. Hood 40+ times a winter on an economical fuel. While going up a decent hill the scout tops out at 45 mph if you drive according to the Pyrometer. The Pyrometer measures EGT exhaust gas temperatures. Diesels especially turbo diesels should be driven according to the pyrometer. Unlike a typical gas engine which are driven to a tachometer. Diesel drivers need to be aware of the RPM's just as gassers, but this is done mostly by sound.

High EGT's are a sign of over fueling and injectors are usually the culprit. Today the injectors where inspected for free by Diesel Fuel Injection Services based in Portland Oregon. They reported that the spray pattern on all injectors was sub standard, and serviced them to the tune of $216.

The Scout is very quick on acceleration and after gear shifts, but the EGT's don't seem to be any lower. A positive unsuspected side effect is that the Scout will idle perfectly well on vegetable oil and before it would not. This is a problem that has plagued many that have converted a Nissan diesel, but that’s another posting all together.