Dodge 4x4 Issues

The Willamette valley has been blanketed with four inches of snow and it's time to jump in the 4wd and have some fun. Pulled out of the drive way yesterday and started sliding so through it into 4 hi got to the bottom of the hill and there was no going up again.


It will be nice to test the vegetable oil system with 4 inches of snow on top of it.


The front axle will not engage. Dodge has a vacuum actuator that couples together the 2 piece right axle illuminating the 4wd indicator light in the dash. This is a troublesome issue to 4 wheel drive owners. All manufacturers have went to something similar to this.

Replacement vacuum actuators can be had for $90. The Posi-Lock 4x4 system found here can be had for $200.

I fixed the problem by taking the actuator apart and reinstalling it in the 4wd position. Eventually I will replace it with the Posi-lock as soon as possible.

Found the vacuum link and put some rubber cement on it. No trouble for the last two years.

Winter Tire Options

There are 4 real options for your rubber when your headed to the Mountain.

Option 1: Chains

Relatively inexpensive
Possibly the best traction

Annoying to install / uninstall
Time consuming (not good when your in a rush for fresh powder)
Worst for the roads



Option 2: New Studs

Solid traction and performance
Warranty

Expensive (oil prices have forced prices up %60 over the last three years)


Option 3: Used Studs

Great Performance for the picky buyer
Inexpensive (Great Deals to be had)
Quick trip to the Mountain

No Warranty
Lack of selection (Whats on Craigslist)

Option 4: Studless

Best for the road
Great Traction
Warranty

Similar Price to new Studs
Harder to judge effective tire wear
Lacks cool stud sound while cruising around town



With new tire prices still skyrocketing in the face of falling oil my money is on used tires. Studs are only supposed to last a couple of seasons but if the stud is still sticking up their should not be any issue even five seasons later.

Happy Sliding

Oil Collection w/ parts list

After snapping several 35 amp fuses trying to pump cold oil from restaurants and wrestling several 55 gallon barrels I have found what works best.

The answer is vacuum. Diesel engines don't produce their own vacuum unlike gasoline engines. Diesel engines do have a vacuum pump to aid power brake boosters and help with air conditioning, automatic hubs etc..

Businesses that clean portable toilets use the power of vacuum to suck number 1,2 and that blue concoction out of the sani-pot, Honey bucket, Skookum what have you.

Their design is cheap and easy. Hardly any moving parts.

There are several spots to T into the vehicles vacuum system underneath the hood. The goldenrod fuel filter housings w/ racquetballs inside keep vegetable oil from getting sucked into your pump.

Parts List For Cummins with Hydro boost brakes:
1/4" DOT approved air brake line x 20'
1/4" Compression fitting to 1/8" FNPT
3/4"FNPT x 1/8" FNPT bushing
3/4"FNPT x 1" MNPT Reducer x3
1" Ball valve x3
1" MNPT Close x3
1"MNPT x 2"
Golden Rod Filter housing x2
Raquetball x2
1" 90 degree elbow
55 gallon sealed barrel
2" MNPT Bung bushing to 1"
1" MNPT 90 degree to 1" FNPT
1" Fuel Hose
3ft of pipe that ties into a ball valve at the end of the hose

Made sure to use Teflon tape where any plastic threads where due to the nasty effect that pipe dope has on plastic.

Coolant system plumbing

Wanted to keep any rubber hose as far away from the exhaust as possible.

Assemble your hose in hose by first running the 3/4" coolant hose from the tank to where the hose in hose terminates in the engine compartment. You will need two sections of coolant hose that are 17ft long each. slide the 3/8" ID pex fuel line through the coolant line. PEX line needs to be longer then the coolant. Use PB Buster or WD-40 to help the pex slide through the coolant hose.

Run your hose in hose from your tank in the bed along the driver side keeping it close to the firewall and protecting it from abrasions wherever contact occurs


Secure the hose with scrap sections of hose and zip ties. Simply cut a section and split it down the middle. A decent pair of hose cutters will make this go quickly.


Terminate the hose in hose here. I used red 5/8" coolant hose for the hot side and black for the return.

Re route your hot coolant hose coming from the head to the Davco 382 filter. Route the coolant hose coming from the Davco 382 to the stock coolant rail; After you switch the rails and cut the rear bend off of the now passenger side piece of tubing.
After the tubing T in using 5/8" coolant hose. Route 5/8" coolant hose over the valve covers and into the hose in hose tee's.

More pictures to come

Parts list
3/4" coolant hose x 34'
3/8" ID(Internal Diameter) PEX (Cross Linked Polyethylene)tubing x36'
3/4" FNPT (Female Pipe Thread) Black Iron T x4
3/4" MNPT (Male Pipe Thread)x 5/8" Push Lock Barb x4
3/4" MNPT x 5/8" Push Lock Barb x2
3/4" MNPT x 5/8" Push Lock Barb 90 Degree x2 (Tank Side)
5/8" Nylon Coolant T x2
1/2" MNPT x 5/8" Push Lock Barb x2 (Hot Fox in and out)
6 Hose clamps with at least 5/8" ID